1978 – 1985: The Birth of an Alternative

In 1978, Italian entrepreneur Renzo Rosso founded Diesel. The name was a conscious choice: in the midst of the oil crisis at the time, diesel was seen as an alternative fuel. Rosso wanted his brand to be an alternative to the established denim labels.

• Philosophy: The focus was on bold, vintage-looking jeans with a rebellious edge.
• The Logo (ca. 1982): To give the brand a face, the Mohawk man was introduced. This symbol of punk culture stands for non-conformity and rebellion.
• Only The Brave: The accompanying slogan underlines Rosso’s vision: fashion is for those who dare. This name later became the name of his parent company, the OTB Group.

The 1990s: The Move to Watches

In the 1990s, Diesel grew from a jeans brand to a broader lifestyle icon. To enter the watch market without having to manufacture timepieces itself, Diesel joined forces with the Fossil Group.

• Licensing model: This collaboration became the basis of their success. Fossil Group handles the technology (quartz movements), production, and distribution.
• Design DNA: Diesel retains complete control over the design and aesthetics, ensuring that the watches fit seamlessly with the industrial and raw style of the clothing line.

The 2000s – 2015: The Pioneer of “Oversized”

Diesel transformed the watch market by setting a completely new trend: XXL watches. Where traditional watches were modest, Diesel opted for extremely large.

• Iconic Series: * Mr. Daddy: Known for its enormous cases (often 50 mm+) and the ability to track up to four different time zones simultaneously.
  Mega Chief: Recognizable by its robust details and metal “brackets” over the date.
• Features: The brand introduced industrial elements such as visible screws, layered dials, and innovative use of colored or iridescent mineral glass.

2016 – Present: Digitization and Back to Basics

With the rise of wearable technology, Diesel attempted to bridge the gap between their bold design and modern functionality.

• Smartwatches: Under the name Diesel On (such as the Axial series), smartwatches were launched based on Google’s Wear OS.
• Change of Course (2024): Fossil Group recently announced that it would discontinue the production of smartwatches. As a result, Diesel’s focus is shifting back entirely to traditional analog watches.
• Modern Aesthetics: New lines such as the Griffed and the geometric Cliffhanger remain true to the oversized tradition, but with a sleeker, more contemporary finish.

In addition to the Mohawk man, who remains the iconic symbol of the brand identity, Diesel also uses a stylized capital letter ‘D’ as its logo, especially on accessories such as bags and buckles. This ‘D’ (often referred to as ‘The Big D’) is a modern, angular, and incomplete letter that also represents the brand in today’s streetwear and luxury market.

Diesel’s watch collection is the result of a powerful partnership: the technical prowess of Fossil combined with Renzo Rosso’s rebellious “Only The Brave” spirit. The brand continues to set the standard for watches that not only tell the time, but above all make a powerful statement.

Diesel has built up an impressive portfolio of watches. Whereas the older models focused mainly on “brute force” and industrial elements, the latest series (under Glenn Martens) feature more organic and futuristic shapes.